Start by filling pots with a premium-quality soil that has been soaked in water. Many growers also choose to lace the water with a root stimulator. Make a hole roughly 10–15mm deep. This will be your seed’s new home. Remove the seeds from their packet and place them into the pre-dug holes. Loosely cover the seeds, but be careful not to compress the soil above the seed too much. The root will struggle to penetrate solid soil, slowing plant growth. Lightly spray the top of where you placed the seed so that your growing medium stays moist.
There is, of course, a far simpler way to germinate seeds. Ideal for beginners, the feminized starter kit by Royal Queen Seeds has everything you need to kick-start your next cannabis project.
Two or three weeks after germination, your young seedlings should be ready for their new home. At this point you have two options; transplanting them into soil pots, or taking on the challenge of hydroponics. You’ll know when the seedlings are ready to be moved because the root system should start to poke out of the bottom of the wool blocks. As long as the roots haven’t begun to engulf the bottom half of the wool block, they will seek out water and nutrients in their new surroundings and continue to grow downwards.
GLASS OF WATER APPROACH
If you don’t like the idea of pre-soaking your soil, you can use a spray to moisten the holes before you plant each seed. With enough moisture surrounding your seeds, you can still encourage a root to develop.
The soil pots will need small holes (roughly 10–15mm deep) for the newly germinated seeds to be placed into. Once the seeds are secure, you will want to place a fluorescent light 13–15cm (5–6 inches) away to encourage growth. Finally, don’t risk overwatering your seeds at this early stage. Use a plant mister to make sure they stay damp but not soaking wet.
Three fundamental principles will trigger that first small taproot to appear: warmth, moisture, and darkness. With the promise of moisture, a single root will take shape before slowly developing into the cannabis plant we know and love. In the right conditions, seeds will begin to develop within 12–36 hours of moisture being introduced to them.
Planting directly into your growing medium prevents having to move seeds when they are at their most fragile. That first root tip is covered with microscopic filaments that are easily damaged. Given that both a cup full of water and moist paper towels are more prone to temperature fluctuations from their environment, planting in soil is a much safer option.
Here’s a quick video to help you with germination:
On the other hand, organic nutrients are derived from living sources and focus on maintaining the beneficial microorganisms in soil alive so they develop a symbiotic relationship with your cannabis plant, this way your plant feeds them and in return get more water and nutrients available for them to absorbs when they need to.
We recommend a mix of soil, perlite, and coco fiber to provide enough water drainage and oxygenation, resulting in the best soil for autoflowers.
Now, organic nutrients can be quite expensive but they’re fairly easy to make at home, it may take time and you will have to learn how to do it properly, but there are several ways to make your own organic nutrients that will not only save you money but you’ll also learn a lot about cannabis plants and the nutrients they need.
The first week is extremely crucial for autoflowers. It’s important to NOT use any fertilizers in the seedling stage since the plants are very tender. You risk burning them, and a single mistake now might prove very costly later. The seedling will have two cotyledons (sometimes 3) that are almost round in shape when they just appear.
LEDs have been in the market for a couple of years now, in the beginning, they weren’t worth it but they have evolved a lot, and nowadays are considered the best not only by home growers but also commercial growers.
An autoflower is a special type of cannabis created by mixing the genetics of the Ruderalis with Indica and Sativa.
I am on this dry to seed straight to mix germination too and don’t think I’ll ever go back. Just so much easier and the same amount of time in my experience. I literally just drop my bean on top of the mix in the center and gently press it down under the mix about 3 widths of the bean deep(about 1/2inch) and then cover up with a ‘screen’ of a bit more mix, not too tight.
I have read several different ways. Some people say pointy way up
Some say pointing side down
Some say horizontal
Also would you need a light source to begin with if planting directly in soil?
Which way should the seed be pointing if you are germinating directly in soil?
hey RC my friend I been sowing dry seed (again) the last few grows. I just place on there side ( 1/2" deep as per Muddys suggestion to clean the helmet off ) and they been good about going the right way. only had one out of maybe the last 50 that I had to turn over. my lights are always on as I don’t like fluctuations in my new computer meter Edison put in. if they grow is there really a right way what do ya think peeps inquiring minds want to know.
I do this in a pre soaked container and also spray a bit on top when I plant and wait. You may spray it a couple times depending on your light and airflow or you may not. On fresh beans, I am getting sprouts in 36 hours no soak, no paper towel.
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Oh and about 9 of 10 germ rates if not more. My most recent for my new Autos were 4 of 4. Oh and doing it this way generally plants it more sideways than anything else. To be honest I don’t even take that into account. It’s a seed and if it’s dropped into mix under god conditions it will grow, that’s what they do in nature.